CHAPTER 1

 

INTRODUCTION

 

 

 

1.1  INITIALIZATION OF ILLAHEE PLAN

 

The Illahee Community Plan, hereafter referred to as the Plan, was developed in response to relatively recent community improvements in the area (a new culvert to enhance salmon runs and the acquiring of nearly 500 acres for the Illahee Preserve) and an awakened community spirit. The community was first settled in 1885 and, though relatively small in size, has maintained its identity and character since that time.  Ninety years ago, in 1916, it officially chartered as a recognized community in Kitsap County.

 

The Illahee area was previously overlooked or ignored in the Comprehensive Plan of 1998 and found itself included as part of the urban growth area between Bremerton and the Silverdale area.  The blanket zoning for higher density housing did not consider the history of the Illahee Community or the semi-rural setting of this unique area. 

 

With the advent of the Kitsap County Comprehensive Plan 2006 Update community members came together to request the previous oversight be corrected and the Illahee Community be recognized in accordance with Growth Management Act requirements.  The community resolution requesting this action is noted in Appendix A.

 

The community planning process for the Illahee Plan began too late for the county to support with planning support personnel so the resulting plan is truly a community grassroots planning effort completed by local Illahee citizens.  Kitsap County provided map and document support, attended a community meeting, and provided support when asked, but the impetus and follow-through is purely community support and involvement. 

 

With the volume of community response it was necessary to develop a Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) sheet, see Appendix B, to try and answer the questions being asked.  Additionally, a questionnaire, see Appendix C, was developed and distributed within the community to ensure all the citizens had an opportunity to be heard.

 

In order that writers of the Plan Ònot reinvent the wheelÓ community members used the Manchester Community Plan as a template.  The Manchester Plan was a relatively recent Plan approved by the Planning Commission and the County Commissioners in 2003. 

 

To develop this Plan, community members were asked in the questionnaire (Appendix C) if they would consider being members of a Citizens Advisory Group (CAG).  This resulted in a response of over 70 volunteers, see Appendix D.  Using questionnaire comments and the Manchester template, the Plan outline was prepared and individuals and groups prepared their assigned chapters or sections of the Plan.  The Plan will go through three stages of development; initial research, preparation of initial draft, and incorporation of comments and corrections into a final draft, before official submittal to Kitsap County.

 

Special care was taken to make sure the Plan meets the communityÕs needs in accordance with the goals of the Growth Management Act which are included as Appendix E.   Appendix E functions in some ways like an Executive Summary of IllaheeÕs compliance with the Growth Management ActÕs planning goals, and provides the justification for its adoption by the Planning Commission and County Commissioners.

 

1.2  HISTORY OF ILLAHEE

 

The first people to spend time in Illahee were Indians, probably Suquamish.  Remains of a campground were found indicating they likely came often to hunt and dig for clams.  It is from the Suquamish that we get the name ÒIllaheeÓ, which has several meanings including Òa place of restÓ, which has been adopted for these lands.                                                                                                                                

 

The first white person known to settle here was William Christianson, who took up the first homestead at the center of Illahee, in 1885.  He did not Òprove upÓ in the allotted time, meaning he did not complete the homesteading requirements on time, so he relinquished the property to his nephew, Samuel Anderson, who proved up the property in 1895.  The area was near where the community dock is located.  Anderson brought cattle here which were sold for food to logging camps and sawmills.  He sold the property in 1903 when he returned to Sweden, but returned later to buy the property now known as Rue Villa, the area between Illahee State Park and the mouth of Illahee Creek.

 

Around the turn of the century the area began to attract attention as a resort, and the Old Homestead Inn was built as a place for people to board.  This substantial structure is still with us, having been made a home by the Palbitska family and several others. It has been worked over many times, and now is a residence at 5--- Illahee Road.  Another historical landmark building was the Bergh Ranch, which was built in 1898.  It was a two story structure surrounded by a large orchard.  It later became the Post Office for the area when mail was brought in by boat.  It was torn down to build what are now residences at 5940 & 5944 Illahee Road.  This area is often referred to as the Bergh Platt.

 

In 1903 the Palbitska family had moved to the University Point area and then in 1903 established a ranch in the Derek Drive area.  Oscar Applegren, who had a ranch on the top of the hill in the Sunset area, built a path to the PalbitskaÕs to have access to boat transportation.  It was Oscar Applegren, with blasting powder supplied by the county, who established the first road into the area from Gilberton.

 

In the years families grew, and the need for a school developed.  At first family members rowed across the water to Crystal Springs on Bainbridge Island.  Then a school was built on Ocean View in 1907, and it was in use until 1929.  There were from 9 to 30 children in attendance for those years. There is a list of eleven teachers who taught there. Then when roads became more passable, a school bus was used, driven by Hugh Kane.   Later, large buses were able to come to Illahee, and the children entered the Sheridan system in Bremerton. 

 

It was Ole Hanson of Seattle who had the Illahee Community Dock built in 1910 for his Land Development Company.  Though upgraded several times over the last hundred years it remains essentially as designed.

 

A vigorous sales folder was put out by Ole Hanson in the year 1916.  It shows water and forest views and three fine houses then in existence.  This resulted in increased building and the beginning of a flourishing resort and household area.  There were no roads yet, and access to the area was by water only. Then came the depression of 1929. Quite a number of out-of-work owners of fine Seattle houses left their Seattle residences to live in their vacation homes in Illahee.  The record shows that some of them worked here for a wage of 5 to 25 cents an hour.  Many homes were also abandoned, as well as the beautiful community club house next to the Illahee community dock, now a residence at 5--- Illahee Road.  Some of these homes we not reoccupied until the outbreak of World War II.                                   

 

An early covenant agreement was established for Illahee.  In it is a specification that no businesses except for one store would be allowed.  The first store was across the street from the Illahee dock and was replaced in the early 1970Õs by the new Illahee store (which is currently closed).  A second store run by Hugh Kane started out as a car repair garage and evolved into a small grocery store as well.  Hugh also repaired and drove the Illahee/Gilberton busses.  One of the buses was also used as the school bus for Manette and later Sheridan school.  Several years after Mr. KaneÕs death, his store was torn down.  His store was located across the road from the residence at 5321 Illahee Road.

 

In the earliest years, Illahee was accessible only by water.  Citizens rowed to Bremerton, or to Bainbridge Island.  Later, two power boats were used, which arrived each day, the Vashonia and the Chickaree.  Subsequently many more small boats were added, and together they came to be called the Mosquito Fleet. The cost for getting to Bremerton or to Seattle was small, and these boats were the main means of travel for a considerable time.   

 

Eventually local people began to push the county for a better road (than down Fir Drive) for vehicles to get up the very steep and muddy Illahee slope and into Bremerton.  The road went past the Avery and Byer homesteads and was considered barely useable in the 1930Õs.  County Commissioner Rue had Illahee Road built in its present location in 1938/9.  The Mosquito Fleet vanished, and cars went up the hill at last.  It was Commissioner Rue who built a remarkable villa for his residence and thus the name Rue Villa was established and is still used to describe the surrounding area.

 

At the bottom of the hill there is still one of the first and finest houses built in the Illahee area.  It was built about 1900 by Major Henry LaMotte, who was a medical officer with Theodore Roosevelt and the Rough Riders in the Spanish American War.  Dr. Ray Schutt bought the house in 1929.  A fine log cabin was also built on the property in the 1930Õs by a grateful patient.  Dr. Schutt also owned the adjacent beach, and had a small dam installed upstream along Illahee Creek where he raised trout. The address of the LaMotte/Schutt house is 5401 Illahee Road.

 

It was found that there was not enough water for all of these people, and soon local people worked out a good water supply from the pools on the upper hill and Illahee Creek.  Then this developed problems, since the pipes would dislocate and stop the supply.  When this happened, the houses uphill would lose water first, an occupant would call local help to go out and do repairs.  Of other utilities, the telephone system was about the first to be put in and be reliable.  Electricity came next, but sometimes those poles would go down and other troubles would stop the supply of current. Finally Puget Power came in and managed the product effectively. 

 

Illahee State Park was established in 19??

 

At the center of the community, which extended from Illahee State Park to University Point, is a tall flagpole, with a sign announcing ÒIllahee Community since l916Ó The flagpole and the community dock is one of the distinguishing landmarks of the area today.  It was in 1922 that the Port of Illahee was established, primarily to maintain the dock.  The Port continues to this day to maintain the dock, along with many other areas of involvement within the Port District boundaries.  The dock area is a constant attraction, particularly during the warm weather, for residents to enjoy the water

 

One of the biggest excitements Illahee had was the arrival of the U.S. Navy in 1941 for work on degaussing.  Because of the availability here of sheltered deep water, the Naval Degaussing Station from San Diego set up a station.  They initially moored a small deperming (degaussing) barge at the end of the dock in April 1941 with a crew of 4 men.  Later they placed six mooring buoys out in the middle of the bay.  The purpose was to reduce the permanent magnetism of the steel of a ship in order to protect it from magnetic mine explosives.

 

At the outbreak of World War II, the Navy took control of the community dock and established a large presence in the community (3 large barges, many launches, and two Coast Guard patrol boats were stationed here).  One huge ship after another was degaussed here. Each was wrapped by several thousand feet of electric cable as it floated quietly amidst the buoys of Illahee.  These cables went down the side and many times around the hull making a 674-foot electromagnet near a big ship.  When the war ended the Navy left the community dock, but they did continue to use the degaussing area at mid channel until the 1970Õs, at which time the buoys were removed.

 

More recently, a monumental step to preserving the natural features of this area was the purchase of the remaining Department of Natural Resources (DNR) School Trust lands by Kitsap County.  This purchase of 352 acres of forest lands and primary watershed in 2001 for use as open space and parks was instrumental in preserving the natural resources of the area.  In 2003 the Illahee Preserve was established, which not only included the old DNR acres, but also a nearly like amount of private land.  The PreserveÕs land combined with the Illahee State Park land makes a significant pen space and recreation greenbelt which will be lauded by future generations as the surrounding area between Bremerton and Silverdale becomes totally urban.   It will literally satisfy the meaning of the word ÒIllaheeÓ, as Òa place of restÓ.

 

For more than a century, residents of Illahee have felt a sense of community.  Often people would buy a house in the area with the idea of moving to somewhere else later.  Then they would find that the area was agreeable and unique, the water and greenery admirable, and they would stay for years. Community spirit is active and strong.  There have been many community groups in the history of Illahee with different purposes, and all of them have been successful.  And with this spirit of community Illahee will remain a special place for residents and visitors for generations to come.

 

 

Figure 1.1 Mosquito Fleet Historical Monument at the Foot of Illahee Community Dock

 

 

 

1.3  VISION FOR THE ILLAHEE COMMUNITY

 

The Illahee Community Plan is a statement reflecting on the civic pride and community involvement that has existed for over the past 120 plus years.  There is a sense of accomplishment in the community for all the current progress and happenings beginning with salmon restoration projects (1994-98), a new culvert (1999), the recent establishment of the Illahee Preserve (2003), and grants to improve conditions in the Illahee Creek watershed (2005/6).  And most importantly, there is a real concern for the future of Illahee if local citizens are not actively and materially involved in the planning process.  This is an effort for the local citizens to recognize what originally attracted them to the area, and what keeps them here, and what they need to do to continue to make improvements to further enhance the atmosphere and character of the area, to ensure it remains the unique community they know and love. 

 

When posed with the question, ÒWhat would you like to see addressed in a community plan?Ó residents envisioned a community centered around and amongst the abundance of natural resources in the area, which included Illahee State Park, Illahee Creek, and the Illahee Preserve, three miles of pristine waterfront, two major docks, and much more. They wanted to strive to maintain the community charm and quaintness that Illahee currently offers.  Residents wish to maintain the high quality of the natural environment.  Protection of park areas, wetlands, streams and wildlife habitat is highly important along with the need to maintain the connectedness and to accommodate reasonable growth in the area. These visions and dreams can be accomplished by permitting growth in those areas where infrastructure enhancements already exist and environmental protections are insured.  This also means open space designations for the natural resources that need protection and especially those already specified as park or preserve.  It is this mix of land uses that makes the Illahee area a unique blend of natural resources and open space surrounded by semi-rural areas, urban areas, and a short perimeter commercial business strip along a major highway.

 

Illahee is an area that has been blessed with a diversity of resources, natural and manmade, and the community desires a community plan that blends the best of both of these worlds together into a place where we long to live with nature and our fellow citizens.

 

 

1.4  PUBLIC PARTICIPATION

 

(This section will be added after the draft Plan is reviewed by the CAG and the appropriate public meetings are held.)

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